Spring 2025 is shaping up to be one of the driest on record in the UK. As of mid-May, the UK has received an average of just 80mm of rainfall this spring, compared to the typical 229mm, making it the driest spring in over a century.

The prolonged dry conditions have led to concerns over potential droughts, with the Environment Agency issuing medium drought risk warnings. Reservoir levels are notably low, especially in northern regions, and some areas have already seen over 20 consecutive dry days

Given the current conditions, it’s advisable to implement water conservation measures in your garden and pond to mitigate the effects of the ongoing dry spell. Keeping your garden and pond looking good during drought conditions is possible with the right strategies. Here’s a comprehensive guide to help both your garden and pond thrive with minimal water.

Garden care during drought conditions

1. Choose drought-tolerant plants

• Native plants or Mediterranean species that naturally handle dry conditions well include lavender, sedum, rosemary and echinacea.
• Group plants by water needs to avoid overwatering some while under-watering others.

2. Mulch your flowerbeds

• Mulching flower beds is a simple but powerful way to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and improve soil health. This is especially important during drought conditions.
• Apply 5–10 cm of organic mulch (wood chips, bark, straw, compost, leaf mulch or gravel) to retain soil moisture, reduce evaporation, and cool the root zone.
• Replenish mulch as needed throughout the season.

3. Water smart

• Water early in the morning or late in the evening to reduce evaporation.
• Use soaker hoses or install a drip irrigation system instead of using a sprinkler to water larger beds. This is more efficient than a standard hosepipe and works well with timers and harvested water.
• If you have a rainwater butt, use the collected water in a watering can for daily watering.
• Water deeply and less frequently to encourage deep root growth.

4. Improve soil health

• Incorporate compost and organic matter to improve water retention.
• Avoid over-tilling, which dries out soil quickly.

5. Shade and wind protection

• Use shade cloth or taller plants to protect sensitive areas.
• Windbreaks (like hedges or fences) help reduce drying winds.

Pond care during drought conditions

1. Reduce water loss

• Top up your pond with rainwater from a harvesting water butt attached to your drainpipe.
• Minimize splashing from fountains or waterfalls. Direct water flow back into the pond efficiently.

2. Provide shade

• Use floating plants like water lilies or duckweed to cover 50–70% of the surface.
• Shade reduces evaporation and algae growth.

3. Limit nutrient Inputs

• Avoid feeding fish excessively. Any uneaten food will sink to the bottom and start to decompose. This then increases algae growth.
• Prevent fertilizer or lawn runoff entering the pond, which can spike algae blooms.
• Remove fallen leaves and dead plant matter regularly to prevent nutrient buildup.

4. Monitor water quality

• During droughts, evaporation concentrates nutrients. Test water regularly for ammonia, nitrites, and pH.
• Use barley straw or beneficial bacteria to manage algae naturally.

5. Aerate wisely

• If using a fountain or bubbler, run it during cooler parts of the day to reduce evaporation.
• Ensure oxygen levels remain high, especially if the pond is small and has fish.

More tips to manage drought conditions

• Try to make a point of capturing every drop of water (free of bleach or other harmful chemicals). Use greywater (e.g. from baths, washing dishes in basin or laundry) for watering plants.
• Lawns are thirsty and need regular watering to retain a lush green look. If you have an area of your lawn continually exposed to sun, you could consider replacing with gravel, or drought-tolerant groundcovers.
• Add good drainage designs.
• Rubber pond liners such as Butyl and Epalyn are UV resistant. This is a particularly important feature during the summer months especially when evaporation levels are high.

Taking care of your pond during drought conditions is crucial to maintaining water quality, supporting aquatic life, and preventing long-term damage. The same applies to managing your garden and adapting it to meet the ever changing weather conditions.

Water gardens, also referred to as an aquatic garden or garden pond, have become popular in recent years. A water garden is a man-made feature, which typically combines a pond with aquatic plants and/or ornamental fish. Fixed items such as rocks, fountains, statues and waterfalls can be combined with the pond to add visual interest and integration with the surrounding garden landscape.

Once you have completed digging out your pond and laying the pond liner and protective pond underlay, your water garden is ready for filling with water and adding pond features such as aquatic plants. Many pond owners add a layer of protective underlay above the liner as well as below. The rational for doing this is that the liner is then fully protected from any type of planting method used including the use of boulders or rocks to secure plants in place.

When selecting aquatic plants, it is important to remember that the plants should not cover more than 50 – 60 percent of the water surface. There are many types of plants to choose from. Water garden plants are divided into 3 main categories: submerged, marginal and floating.

Submerged plants are those that live almost completely under water. Some submerged plants have leaves or flowers that grow to the surface such as the water lily. These plants are placed in a pond about 1-2 ft. below the water surface. Some of these plants are called oxygenators because they create oxygen for the fish. Examples of submerged plants are:

• Water lily (Hardy and Tropical)
• Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)

Marginal plants live with their roots under the water but the rest of the plant grows above the surface. These are usually placed so that the top of the pot is at or barely below the water level. Examples of these are:

• Iris (Iris)
• Water-crowfoot (Ranunculus fluitans)
• Bulrush (Scirpus lacustris)
• Cattail (Typha latifolia)
• Taro, Elephant Ear, roots for poi (Colocasia esculenta)
• Arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia)
• Lotus (Nelumbo)
• Pickerelweed (Pontederia cordata)

Floating plants are those that are not anchored to the soil at all, but are free-floating on the surface. In water gardening, these are often used as a provider of shade to reduce algae growth in a pond. Most are fast growing and as a consequence can pose a threat to the haelth of the pond if not managed. Examples of these are:

• Mosquito ferns (Azolla)
• Water-spangle (Salvinia)
• Water-clover (Marsilea vestita)
• Water lettuce (Nile lettuce) (Pistia stratiotes)
• Water-hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes)

Algae is found in all ponds. Algae often grows in very high densities in ponds because of the high nutrient levels that are typical of garden ponds. Some species of algae, namely ‘blanket weed’ can grow up to a foot a day under ideal conditions and can rapidly clog a garden pond.

Visit Pond Liners Online Blog for lots of tips and information related to all aspects of garden ponds, pond building, maintenance and liners.

Designing your pond can seem a little daunting particularly if you have no prior experience. Let’s start with some key details to help you to design the perfect pond for you. We hope you find the following steps useful.

1. Purpose for building a pond

What is the main goal for your pond?

• Decorative (for aesthetic appeal)
• Fish pond (koi, goldfish, or other species)
• Wildlife habitat (to attract birds, frogs, etc.)
• Swimming pond
• Irrigation or farm pond

2. Size and shape

• How much space do you have available?
• Do you want a natural, freeform shape or a more structured, geometric design?
• Approximate depth preference? (Shallow ponds are good for plants, deeper ponds help keep fish safe)

3. Location

• Is your area mostly sunny, partially shaded, or fully shaded?
• Do you want it near your home, patio, or further in the yard?
• Are there trees nearby? (Leaves can be an issue)

4. Filtration and water features

• Do you want a waterfall, fountain, or stream?
• Will you use a pump and filter, or do you prefer a natural eco-pond?
• Do you want underwater lights for night-time beauty?

5. Plants and wildlife

• Would you like aquatic plants (lilies, reeds, oxygenating plants)?
• Do you want to attract birds, frogs, or beneficial insects?
• Are you concerned about predators like herons or raccoons?

6. Budget and materials

• Do you prefer a rubber pond liner, pre-formed shell, or a natural clay pond?
• Are you planning a DIY build, or hiring professionals?
• Do you have a rough budget in mind?

Here is an example of how to plan and budget your pond build:

Example, you want a decorative pond, free form shape, about 5m x 4m, location in a sunny area, include a fountain and aquatic plants. Budget is about £1000. Here’s a basic plan tailored to your needs:

Pond design and layout

• Shape: Freeform, natural-looking curves to blend with the landscape.
• Size: 5m x 4m, with a depth of around 60-80cm (deeper in the center, shallower at the edges for plants).
• Location: Full sun, which is great for flowering aquatic plants, but may require algae control.

Materials & Estimated Costs

Features and additions

Fountain: A solar-powered or electric fountain for aeration and aesthetics.
Aquatic plants: Water lilies (for shade), oxygenating plants (to keep water clear), and marginals (for edges).
Edging: Natural rocks, pebbles, or plants to blend with the garden.
Wildlife-friendly: Shallow edges for birds and beneficial insects.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to sketch your pond design:

Materials Needed:

• Graph or plain paper
• Pencil and eraser
• Ruler (optional, for rough dimensions)
• Colored pencils or markers (optional, for depth and detail)

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Outline the Pond Area:
   • Begin by drawing a rough rectangle or a light grid to represent the overall space available.
   • Within that space, sketch a freeform, irregular shape that approximates a 5m x 4m pond. Don’t worry about perfect symmetry—the natural curves add character.
2. Define the pond’s depth:
   • Indicate that the pond is deeper in the center and shallower at the edges.
   • You can do this by lightly shading the center area darker and the edges lighter, or by drawing contour lines (like topographic lines) that suggest a gradual depth change.
3. Mark the fountain location:
   • Draw a small circle or fountain symbol roughly in the center of the pond (or slightly off-center if you prefer a more natural look).
   • From this circle, you can add radiating lines or gentle curves to symbolize water being pushed outwards.
4. Plan the aquatic plants:
   • Floating Plants: Add small, round shapes to represent water lilies. Place a few around the fountain area to catch the eye.
   • Marginal Plants: Draw elongated, leaf-like shapes along the pond’s edges to represent plants growing in the shallow areas. Vary their sizes to create a natural look.
5. Add edging and decorative elements:
   • Around the outer boundary of the pond, sketch irregular lines or clusters of small shapes to represent natural rocks or pebbles.
   • Consider drawing a few stepping stones if you envision easy access to the pond’s edge.
6. Label key features:
   • Clearly label the fountain, aquatic plants (e.g., “water lilies,” “marginal plants”), and any special areas like deeper zones or rock borders.
   • This can help keep the design organized if you plan to reference it during construction.
7. Review and refine:
   • Step back and look at your sketch. Make sure the proportions feel right for a decorative pond in a sunny area.
   • Erase any stray lines and add any final details that highlight the natural, freeform appearance.

Optional Enhancements:

• Colour coding: Use blue shades for water, greens for plants, and browns/greys for rocks to add visual interest.
• Water flow: You can add small arrows or curves around the fountain to show how the water will circulate, which can help plan for aeration and plant placement.

This sketch will serve as a conceptual guide for building your pond within your £1000 budget, ensuring you cover all essential design elements. Enjoy the process of bringing your pond design to life!

A pond liner is a relatively expensive investment. Taking care of your liner can mean it will last up to thirty-five years or more. The cost of any type of flexible pond liner depends on the size of the build and the liner material you choose. Rubber liners such as Butyl and Epalyn (EPDM) are slightly more expensive than PVC, however they offer many high quality features such as resistance to ultra-violet rays, highly flexible moulding readily into the contours of a pond design and resistant to tearing. Despite the high specifications, if care is not taken during installation, you could risk damaging your liner. What goes under your pond liner of choice can make a difference to your water features success and liner longevity.

Importance of protective underlay to a pond liner

A geotextile liner is a permeable fabric made from synthetic materials. It is commonly used in pond construction to serve as a protective layer or stabilizing material, offering several key benefits.

If the ground you have built your pond contains sharp rocks, roots, or debris, a layer of geotextile protective underlay material beneath the liner can prevent punctures. You only need to consider the weight of just 10 litres of water to appreciate the pressure baring down on a liner once the water feature has been filled.

Provides a stable foundation by preventing soil movement under the liner. Reduces erosion and enhances the structural integrity of the pond base.

Protective liner options

For most ponds, non-woven geotextile underlay liner is the best choice. Geotextile is specifically designed for this purpose, offering superior durability, protection, and ease of installation. Additionally, they are lightweight, easy to cut, and compatible with all liner materials.

Adds structural support for liners in larger projects where the risk of damage is higher.

If you’re on a budget or have an irregular surface, combining a geotextile underlay with a sand layer can provide an effective, cost-efficient solution.

Benefits of adding a protective underlay liner

By adding a protective underlay between the soil and your pond liner you will help extend it’s life. Geotextile also helps to reduce maintenance costs by preventing leaks or liner failures. In summary, it will increase the overall durability and resilience of the pond structure.

In most pond construction projects, especially with flexible rubber liners, a geotextile underlay is a cost-effective and practical solution to protect the liner and ensure long-term functionality.

Choosing the right pond liner for a garden pond in the UK involves a number of important considerations, including material type, durability, size, and environmental factors.

Here’s a breakdown of pond liner options and some recommendations for a successful garden pond build:

Types of Pond Liners UK

• PVC Liners: Cost-effective and flexible, PVC liners are popular for smaller ponds. They are easy to work with but are not UCV resistant therefore can degrade when exposed to sunlight over time. PVC pond liner material is a good for small size ponds, but should be installed with a protective underlay to prevent punctures.
• EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer), also known as Epalyn pond liners: This type of rubber liner materials are flexible, highly durable, resistant to UV rays, and can withstand harsh temperatures. Epalyn is a popular choice for medium to large size ponds or irregular shapes as it stretches well without cracking.
• Butyl Rubber Liners: Known for durability, butyl rubber pond liners UK are flexible, long-lasting, and more resistant to damage. They’re slightly more expensive but are suitable for larger ponds. In the UK, Butyl has been a favourite due to its durability and weather resistance.
• RPE (Reinforced Polyethylene) Liners: Lightweight and strong, RPE liners are durable and resistant to tears. However, they’re not as flexible as rubber liners, making them less ideal for complex shapes but good for larger ponds with simpler designs.
• Preformed Liners: Preformed fiberglass or plastic liners are rigid and suitable for small to medium-sized ponds with simple shapes. They’re durable and easy to install but limited in customization.

Pond liner size and thickness

• For most garden ponds, a liner thickness of 0.75mm is sufficient. Thicker liners of 1mm are recommended for larger, more elaborate pond designs, box-welded pond liners or where durability is key.
• Choosing the correct pond liner size will save you time and money. You can calculate the required liner size by measuring the maximum width, length, and depth of the pond:
  • Maximum Length (L): Measure the longest distance of the pond.
  • Maximum Width (W): Measure the widest distance of the pond.
  • Maximum Depth (D): Measure from the pond bottom to the highest point of the edge.

Calculate liner length and width:

Liner Length=Pond Length (L)+(2×Depth (D))+Edge Overlap

Liner Width=Pond Width (W)+(2×Depth (D))+Edge Overlap

Edge overlap = Add 30-60 cm (around 12-24 inches) on each side to secure the liner around the pond edges.

If your pond has an irregular shape, measure the longest and widest points. It is best to err on the side of caution and round up to the nearest available liner size. Any extra pond liner can be easily trimmed or tucked under your chosen edging material such as boulders or pebbles used to secure your liner in place.

Protective Underlays

Using an underlay is essential to protect the liner from sharp rocks, roots, and ground movement. Materials like geotextile underlay or sand can be used as a cushion beneath the liner.

Climate Considerations for the UK

The UK’s climate, with cold winters and wet conditions, makes rubber liners (like Epalyn or Butyl) a good choice as they handle temperature fluctuations well. EPDM Epalyn is particularly good for withstanding frost.

Selecting the right pond liner can make a big difference in longevity and ease of maintenance for your garden pond. Epalyn and Butyl rubber liners are often the best options in the UK due to their flexibility and resilience to the climate.

Autumn in the UK is a season of transformation, as the landscape turns from lush greens to warm shades of gold, amber, and red. The air is crisp and fresh, carrying the earthy scent of fallen leaves and the faint smokiness of wood fires. Mornings often begin with mist hanging low over fields and rivers, adding a mystical quality to the countryside, while shorter days and cooler temperatures signal nature’s retreat in preparation for winter.

Wildlife is more active in this season, with squirrels scurrying to gather food, hedgehogs preparing for hibernation, and birds migrating south. Gardens take on a new character, with bursts of autumnal flowers like dahlias and asters and the last of the season’s harvest, including apples, pumpkins, and blackberries.

Important gardening tasks

Autumn is a crucial time for garden preparation as the weather starts to cool and leaves begin to fall.

Here are key tasks to help keep your garden healthy and ready for winter:

1. Lawn care and why an important gardening task

Rake up fallen leaves to prevent them from smothering the grass. Fallen leaves can form a thick, damp mat that blocks sunlight and air from reaching the grass. Without sunlight, grass can weaken and die, leaving patches in the lawn. Leaves also trap moisture, which encourages fungal growth, moss, and other lawn diseases that can damage grass.

While raking is important for lawns and paths, some gardeners rake-up leaves into specific areas, like under shrubs, where they can decompose slowly and provide insulation. They also benefit wildlife by providing shelter for hedgehogs, insects, and other wildlife.

Raked leaves can also be composted, providing nutrient-rich mulch or soil for the garden. This is an excellent way to recycle organic matter and enrich your garden naturally.

If you have a garden pond, remember to rake-off fallen leaves from the surface before they sink and start decomposing.

Aerate your lawn to improve drainage and reduce compaction.

Apply autumn lawn feed for strengthening roots and improving winter resilience.

Mow less frequently, but keep the grass relatively short before winter sets in.

2. Planting and pruning

Plant spring bulbs (like daffodils, tulips, and crocuses) in beds or pots for spring displays. A gardening task that transitions our outdoor space from winter to spring.

Divide and replant perennials to refresh your flower beds and encourage new growth.

Prune hedges and shrubs like roses, hydrangeas, and buddleia, removing dead or damaged wood.

Plant trees and shrubs; the cool, moist soil gives them time to establish before spring growth.

3. Tidy up borders and flower beds

• Cut back spent annuals and perennials but leave some, like seed heads, for wildlife and winter interest.
• Mulch beds with compost or bark to insulate roots and enrich the soil over winter.
• Remove weeds to reduce competition for nutrients and prevent them from seeding.
• Move tender plants like potted citrus and pelargoniums indoors or to a greenhouse.
• Add a layer of straw or fleece around delicate plants for extra insulation against frost.

4. Harvest and clear vegetables

• Harvest remaining vegetables, such as pumpkins, squash, and root vegetables.
• Clear spent crops and add them to the compost.
• Sow green manure in empty beds to improve soil health and reduce erosion.

5. Prepare Tools and Equipment

• Clean and oil garden tools to prevent rust and keep them ready for spring.
• Service lawnmowers and other equipment to ensure they are ready to use after winter.

These tasks will help keep your garden healthy and vibrant, giving it a great start for the next growing season. You can also add vibrancy to your garden by installing bird feeders and bird baths to attract our feathered friends and keep them fed over winter.