Lining a pond is relatively simple when using the several forms of plastic and rubber pond liners which are currently popular. The factors involved when choosing a pond liner will be the dimensions of the pond, the material the liner is made of, and the thickness. Find more about EPDM pond liners.

Design the pond first and then figure out the size required for the liner. To determine the size of your liner, you will need to measure both the length and width of your pond, as well as double the maximum depth. Also throw in an additional foot or two of overhang all the way around your pond. A liner that is too large is more useful than one which is too little.

Pond liners are constructed from a variety of materials and are available in several different thicknesses, which are usually measured in mils (1 ml = 1/1000 of an inch). If you are constructing smaller ponds, especially when they will be free form, a 30 ml liner is an excellent choice. If your pond is bigger you may need to consider a more enduring pond liner, constructed from 40 ml or 45 ml rubber, which should give you many years of reliable use. Find more about koi fish food.

There are several diverse materials used to make pond liners. Probably the best material is EPDM, which is an industrial grade rubber. EPDM comes in an assortment of sizes and works perfectly in just about any kind of pond. The main disadvantage of EPDM is its high cost, but lots of people feel the stuff is so stress-free to work with and so long-lasting that it is worth the extra money.

A second type of plastic which is frequently used for pond liners is HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) and is a nice choice for those putting in a new pond with only a modest budget. This is a man-made plastic liner which is moderately sturdy and sold in 20 - 40 ml thicknesses. It is cheaper than a rubber pond liner and usually flexible enough to shape effectively into tight spaces.

PVC is one more product which can be used, however it has drawbacks when the purpose involves supporting something as heavy as water. Pond liners made from PVC are usually not as heavy-duty as either EPDM or HDPE liners, but they usually are cheaper. If you want to put together an even sturdier pond, you may buy a factory liner constructed of rigid fiberglass. Fiberglass has been in use for swimming pools for many decades and is particularly tough and climate resistant.

Whichever brand of pond liner material you select, make certain that it is made using UV protection. This shields your liner from harmful UV waves which could make it fall apart in only a few years. Pond liner resilience and upkeep depend on the type of material selected, and that can dictate what type of supplies are needed to sustain a healthy pond.

The best pond liners are made from Epalyn or butyl as these are tough enough to last for many years (some references on garden ponds quote these rubber pond liners as lasting for up to 50 years). To know how much liner and protective underlay to order, measure the maximum width plus twice the depth, by maximum length plus twice the depth. Use these calculations to put into the Liners Online pond liner size calculator to get the exact dimensions required.

For the best effect for a natural pond, lay down a protective underlay before adding the pond liner and then another layer of protective underlay on top of that to provide a non-slippery base for your soil layer into which you can plant. Once you have laid the underlay and liner, carefully add the soil and gravel layers. Pat into shape taking care not to puncture the pond liner. To fill your pond with water, don’t put the hose directly onto the gravel and soil layer as the water pressure will displace it as well as causing a dust cloud. Instead place a concrete slab at the edge of the pond to dangle the hose over to slowly trickle water into your pond.

Once your pond is fill, allow it to settle for a few days before introducing plants. You can dig these directly into the soil layer but try to make as little disturbance as possible. My next blog will look at planting for your natural pond. What you plant must work in harmony to create a relaxing setting and reflection off the water.

Observing the metamorphosis of a tadpole to a frog is easily achieved and gives children a unique opportunity to get hands on experience with the frog life cycle. Gradually tadpoles change into frogs or toads. This usually takes two to four months. To get a close view of the change you will need a small aquarium, which can be kept in doors.

Tadpoles are easy to collect from your pond (if you collect them from another pond or stream, it is advisable to re-introduce the grown frog back to the same habitat it came from and not into your own garden pond). Tadpoles are happiest if their new environment is like the one where they come from.  If the pond where you collect them from is cold, then the aquarium needs to be kept cool, making sure it is not in direct sunlight. Therefore, best to avoid keeping your aquarium on a windowsill, which receives direct sunlight even if only for a short period of the day.

As tadpoles grow they will need to be fed. In a pond they live off microorganisms that grow on stones and leaves. As these won’t be found in your aquarium you can feed them small pieces of steamed lettuce leaves. It is important that their water remains clean so be careful not to over feed. Take out any uneaten food every day. If the water gets dirty and starts to smell, change it. Make sure you refill the aquarium with water of the same temperature.

As tadpoles grow bigger they will start to scavenge, eating worms a slugs in their natural habitat. At this stage you can supplement their diet with tiny pieces of meat. Again remove any uneaten food as the meat will turn water smelly very quickly.

If you choose to rather observe the metamorphosis of tadpoles in your garden pond, don’t be alarmed if you notice them being preyed on by many other creatures. Tadpoles have many predators such as fish, birds, newts and diving beetles. I saw Jackdaws swoop down and make a meal of tadpoles (so do also make sure your pond liner has sufficient edging to protect it from visiting claws).

Happy tadpole observing next spring!

A fountain will always draw attention so it is important to locate it in an appropriate position and choose a feature that will suit the style of your garden. The position you choose can either be that you set the fountain into the pond or mounted on the side to spill into the water.

Installing a fountain pump will not only beautify your pond, but also promote a healthy aquatic environment through the oxygen transfer and water circulation that is produced as the cascading water returns to the pond. A lack of oxygen in a pond promotes foul odors, algae growth and is a cause of stagnant vegetation growth.

The addition of a fountain needs to be part of the pond planning and construction process rather than as an after thought. A fountain pump needs an electricity supply to function. You will also need to maintain your fountain pump, so consider this when installing your fountain. If you have a small pond then it is easiest to put the pump in the middle with the fountain jet directly above it. However, in a large pond, it is worth putting the pump at the edge (ideally under an overhanging) and having a flexible plastic pipe connecting the pump to the fountain jet in the middle of the pond.

The pump needs to be raised up from the floor of the pond to reduce the amount of debris sucked in, and to ensure the fountainhead is just clear of the water. Use an upturned terracotta pot or slabs to get the right height (you may need to tie small pumps on). Most pumps have a pre-filter supplied to prevent debris getting sucked in. This will need cleaning every so often.

If you decide to include a statue or sculpture, find out if it has a brass fountain jet incorporated. If it does, then all you need is a length of flexible plastic pipe plus a hose connector to join it to the pump.

Installing a fountain pump in a small garden pond is not difficult and will add a huge amount of character to your garden.

The advantage of constructing a pond using a flexible pond liner is that it allows you to choose from a variety of edging types. The choices you have include a planted edge, turf, cobble stone, paved stone or timber edging.

Consider adding a planted edge for an informal or wildlife pond. For this type of edging, soil into which marginal or moisture-loving plants can be planted, is used to cover the pond liner overlay. To stop the soil sliding to the bottom of the pond, it is advisable to place large stones on the front edge of the planting shelf of your pond. Rounded pebbles also work well as an edging for wildlife ponds by laying them over the pond liner creating a gently sloping edging into the pond.

If you prefer a more formal pond, then a paved edge, which compliments the surrounding landscape of your garden should be used. This type of edging does require more planning and accuracy. A paved edging needs to be laid evenly, if not it will be obvious adjacent to a horizontal plane of water.

You can get very creative with the edging you add above the pond liner and underlay of your pond depending on whether you want a formal or natural pond.

Ideally, you will want a water flow of 450 liters (100 gallons) per hour for every inch of width of the stream of water your fountain produces. In other words, if your fountain has a five inch water stream, you will want a pump that delivers 2,000 liters (500 gallons) of water every hour. Large pond waterfalls may require pumps that can handle 7,570 liters (2,000 gallons) of water or more per hour. It is also important to ensure your pump is a good fit for your fountain. This means paying attention to the height of the head, or the distance between the fountain’s basin and the point where water is discharged. You want to ensure that the head on your fountain water pump is higher than the height of the fountain.

For medium sized fountains, the average liter per hour output is between 450 and 900 liters. Choosing the right water fountain pumps can keep your fountain running perfectly for a great deal of time without risking damage from overuse or from splashing.

The pump you choose will perhaps be the most important choice that you make. To ensure the life of your fountain pump, your fountain needs to pump enough water to meet its purpose without pumping so much as to create splashing. Once your pump is installed, proper maintenance is crucial to your fountain.

Always take time to clean the fountain pump and remove any debris from the tubing as well as to remove buildup with a toothbrush. You also want to make sure that the water level in your fountain is high enough for the fountain pump to work. Make certain that the tubing is connected to the pump. Low water levels can cause the pump to make strange noises, while high water levels can cause overflowing. A small rubber kitchen mat can eliminate vibrating caused by the pump making contact with the basin.

Another common problem for water fountain pumps is tubing that does not fit properly. If the tubing is too small, simply place the end in boiling water for a short time and place it over the tube outlet while it is still warm. Upon cooling, it will shrink to form a watertight seal. If the tubing is too large, purchasing a small screw clamp can hold it tightly in place. In short, most fountain problems can be alleviated at home without the need for repairs. The key is to figure out the problem and to take the steps needed to prevent it occurring again in the future. Maintenance is certainly the key to a long lasting fountain.

A fountain pump can be ordered online from Liners Online >>

Putting the central heating on will not cost you an arm and a leg if you use it wisely. Use it so that the house is warm as you wake up and get in from work. You will not need to have your central heating on all the time of you do this. You can get quick central heating installation from many companies.

Many people do not wear any slippers or socks on their feet if they are in their home. This leads to heat loss from our bodies as there is no insulation keeping it in. Also think about wearing a thick jumper or hooded top as this can save on heating bills. They are really comfy too. When you are outside wear the appropriate clothing as well. If it is likely to snow or rain, keep a waterproof jacket with you. Make sure your feet don’t get wet either. Ballet pumps are not right for winter.

Keep your home’s insulation in good condition. Thermal insulation should be replaced every 25 years, so if you don’t have any or it is old, think about getting some put in your house. There is likely to be an initial cost but it will pay for itself with lower bills.

You will be warmer this winter if you follow this advice. Your bills will be larger at winter, it is something you have to cope with. You should not need to use it in summer though, so that’s good.

To control the proliferation of blanket weed, you need to reduce one of their 3 key requirements; sunlight, nutrients, and a warm temperature. Koi fish keepers will want their ponds to be as warm as possible to stimulate the health and growth of their fish, therefore look at reducing sunlight and dissolved nutrients.

Sunlight penetration can be reduced by providing shade over your pond to reduce blanket weed photosynthesis. A unique, long-term control of blanket weed is to filter out the sun’s rays by adding vegetable dyes to the pond water.

The best advise offered to pond keepers is to aim to adopt the strategy of prevention is better than cure. If you continue to treat blanketweed (which is a symptom of an unbalanced pond) then it will always return, once the treatment has worn off. Instead, try to determine the factors that are the problem in your own pond. If you think it is high levels of nutrients, test for nitrates and phosphates.  Algae will readily absorb nitrates and phosphates to satisfy their need for nitrogen and phosphorous as they grow. These are readily available in tap water or indirectly through fish metabolism.

If sunlight is a factor, reduce this by ensuring there is shade cast over your pond in the warm summer months. Please refer to my previous Pond liners Online blog on adding aquatic plants to your pond to bring a balance, thereby reducing blanket weed from inhabiting your pond.

One factor encouraging algae growth is a dramatic increase in sunshine, which most UK pond owners will be experiencing this summer. A second factor is the nutrient content of water. In a natural setting, fish produce nutrients that are absorbed by plants, leaving very little for algae. However, many garden ponds do not have enough plants growing in them to handle all the nutrients produced by the fish. This causes an excess build-up and produces an ideal environment for algae growth. Whether you are in the process of constructing your pond and want to avoid algae problems once your pond is established or have an existing problem to control, you’ll first want to increase the number of oxygenating plants on the surface of the pond. This is the simplest solution to keeping water clean and clear. You can also reduce direct sunlight into your pond by adding floating plants, such as lilies and lotus, whose leaves provide shade to control algae growth. Add submerged plants that release oxygen to the water. All aquatic plants absorb nutrients and starve the algae. Marginal plants, planted around the periphery of the pond or in the shallow sections of the pond, are also effective in absorbing nutrients and providing some shade.

A further step to reducing the nutrient content in the water, is to make sure you feed your fish only enough food that they will consume within five minutes and to feed them quality fish food, as it will be fully digested, leaving fewer nutrients to pass through the fish into the water.

Don’t be discouraged by algae as the problem is often easily solved if corrective steps are taken.

If your pond level is getting low, don’t panic, it’s natural during summer. Topping up a low pond with tap water adds nutrients just at the time it’s ripe for an algae bloom. Before you know it you’ve got a pool of green sludge that takes the oxygen from the water and blocks out the light to the plants below.

The best advise is to try collecting as much rainwater as possible. It is free from pollution. Not only is this water great for wildlife in your garden, but by diverting it from our drains you could save yourself money on your water bill.

What to do to protect your pond:

1.) Remove any existing blanket weed from the surface of your pond. This takes nutrients out of the system. Use a rake (a leaf rake is ideal) to gently drag the surface layer of algae to the pond edge, and scoop it out. Be careful not to uproot other floating plants. There will be insects and maybe tadpoles caught up in it so its important to leave it on the bank to allow them to wriggle back into the pond. After a few hours, put it on the compost heap.

2.) Allow the pond level to fluctuate naturally as much as possible, and if digging a new pond make a deep area so it will never completely dry out. If you do need to top it up, use rainwater collected in water butts, not tap water. Avoid directing rainwater straight into a pond from your roof, as it will carry sediments that will build up in your pond. Allowing it to collect in a water butt first will let these sediments settle out.

3.) Check that the material you have used for the edging of your pond is covering the pond liner sufficiently enough to be protected from UV rays. The best advice is to install a pond liner, which is UV resistant. Should the water level of your pond drop and the pond liner exposed, you will be grateful you installed a premium quality, UV resistant liner which won’t go brittles and crack in summer.